“Aren’t they embarrassed, Dad?”
We were on a vacation in Australia, and Brian, eight years old, was experiencing a topless beach for the first time. His question reflected his socialization in a culture where public nudity is not the norm. (As I remember it, he seemed to adjust to this new culture rather quickly.)
It is well known that many European cultures have a more open attitude toward the human body than most people from the U.S. A few examples:
- An upscale Dutch hotel features “No Swimsuits Sundays” at its indoor pool.
- Vienna’s prestigious Leopold Art Museum once offered free admission to its “Naked Truth” early 1900’s erotic art exhibit to any patron coming naked. Founder Elizabeth Leopold said, “We find the naked body every bit as beautiful as a clothed one.”
- Some years ago 7,000 people showed up in Barcelona to be photographed in the nude for American photographer Spencer Tunick’s “Naked Pavement” series. (Interestingly, Tunick was arrested four times in New York City for attempting the same project before winning his case before the U.S. Supreme Court.)
This relaxed attitude toward nakedness is nowhere more clearly reflected than in the phenomenon of the sauna. In Europe it is not uncommon for people to willingly strip naked and sit together on wooden benches in a cramped super-heated room, sometimes with complete strangers.
Although this ancient tradition was not invented by the Finns, they are most closely associated with the sauna. Finland, with a population of 5.5 million, has 2 million saunas. In this country of long cold winters, it is understandable that saunas would flourish there. And, conversely, because summers there are short and fleeting, they are a time of constant celebration. There are Finnish legends surrounding summertime that have a nakedness theme. An old legend has it that if a young woman rolls naked in a dewy field on Midsummer’s Eve, she will remain beautiful for the rest of the year (and contract Lyme Disease from rolling around naked in the weeds.) And if a girl goes naked to the well during that same special evening, she will see the face of her future husband reflected briefly in the water (or the village lecher standing behind her.)
“Taking a sauna” can involve a complex series of heating and cooling the body, and the process varies across cultures and from person to person. The cooling process can range from a cool shower to a heart-stopping plunge into an icy lake. I once came out of the sauna and entered a shower which had a large red button positioned in the middle, which I incorrectly assumed would turn on the hot water. Instead it released a five gallon dump of ice water from eight feet above.
Although still a sauna rookie, I grew to enjoy the process while living in Europe. Before getting to that place, however, I had a few unnerving experiences. Let me describe my first two sauna encounters.
I had decided to throw caution and ingrained cultural taboos to the wind and take a sauna au natural, but I was biding my time until the time was right. The first opportunity that arose seemed safe enough: On a Thursday afternoon at a small German hotel, I had the sauna all to myself, with guaranteed privacy for three hours. (A sauna with training wheels.) I was there working with a number of co-workers, but I was the only one not in meetings all afternoon, and our group had exclusive use of the hotel. I had carefully checked and rechecked everyone’s schedules and was confident that my total privacy was assured.
Many hotel saunas in Europe are mixed gender, with separate dressing rooms but a common open shower area next to the sauna. I confidently entered my private domain, turned on the shower, and hung up my towel. I was showering with my back to the sauna when I imagined I heard the sauna door creaking open. “Not possible”, I told myself, so I relaxed, at least until I heard a woman’s voice say, “Hey, Don!” My heart froze as I turned my head to see one of my European colleagues peeking out of the sauna. So much for my careful calculations.
“Just wanted you to know I was here!” she said.
“No problem!” I shouted back, much too quickly and loudly, attempting to sound as cool as one could in such an exposed situation.
As the sauna door closed I quickly considered my options, which boiled down to two: I could grab my towel and bolt, thus confirming the stereotype of the uptight, repressed American, or I could join her in the sauna and hope for a power failure. I grabbed my towel and went in. Lying there on her back across from me with her eyes closed, she said, “I do this at least once a week, so it’s no big deal to me, but I wasn’t sure about you.”
“Are you kidding?” I replied, looking at the ceiling and attempting to sound casual. “Heck, I do this almost every day! Why, I can’t think of anything more natural than this!”
Luckily, when we saw each other again that evening, she was the one to joke, “Sorry, I didn’t recognize you with your clothes on!”
My second sauna experience was awkward in a different way. I was invited to the sauna by two male business partners in Finland. We had finished the day’s business when Juhana and Ralf suggested that we take a sauna. Their company headquarters, like many in Finland, has its own sauna. This one had separate hours for women and men to use the facilities. It was now the end of the workday, so we three had the place to ourselves.
We entered a room that looked like an office break room with casual outdoor lounge furniture. It was warm, humid and dimly lit. We sat fully clothed drinking a room temperature beer and chatting about the weather. I had no idea of the protocol, so my strategy was to observe my hosts and carefully mimic their actions.
As we talked, Juhana began to take off his shoes and socks, so I did, too. After more banter, Ralf started unbuttoning his shirt, and I followed suit. After a few minutes, we rose and walked into a narrow corridor lined with benches and stacks of towels. As we continued the conversation, we unbuckled our belts and dropped our pants. Now we were three grown men standing there in our underwear. Juhana brightened and said, “How about a Jacuzzi before the sauna?” He disappeared into the “wet area” to fire up the hot tub. A few minutes later he emerged to say that he couldn’t seem to figure out how to turn it on. We offered to help and went in, setting about the task. I laughed to myself as I observed us: three guys, practically strangers, scurrying around, conferring and troubleshooting, in our undies. My mind drifted back to the locker room in junior high gym class.
After finally finding the switch, we dropped our drawers, showered off and hopped in. After a while we moved into the first round in the sauna. Finns like their saunas hotter than most, and this one felt like a pizza oven to me.
After 15 minutes we took a shower and relaxed together in the lounge area until going back in. For Round 2, they brought in a bucket filled with hot water and a number of vihtas, bundles of birch branches tied together. They had been soaking for a while to soften the branches and leaves. I watched my companions and as they each grabbed a vihta and began to flagellate their naked backs, chests and legs. I followed their lead, and after a few minutes of this exertion in the superheated air, I was near heart failure. We finished with another shower and warm beer before dressing and oozing home.
What about this openness to nakedness? Is it a healthier attitude? How does it affect people’s views of sexuality? I’ll leave that to the social scientists. I do know that it is not usually shocking or offensive and that after a while one becomes blasé to it because it is commonplace.
One learning from observing this more casual attitude toward nudity is that is not typically about sexuality and arousal. In fact it is almost asexual and sometimes even anti-sexual. I once sat in a sauna in the Netherlands as three rather rotund couples lumbered in and plopped down in splayed positions which left nothing hidden from the light of day. (Interesting place for a tattoo. Artistic trim work.) It made me wish for something, anything, to be left to the imagination.
Another lesson is that what is the local norm is normal. Walking into a “naked” sauna in a swimsuit feels like showing up at a picnic in a tuxedo – way overdressed for the occasion.
Have my views on nakedness changed? Maybe a little, but I am not sure that I have adopted a total Nordic attitude toward nudity. But to be on the safe side, if we’re ever stepping into a hot tub together in the US, please stop me before I forget where I am and take off too much.